‘I experienced Christmas at Raby Castle and found an oasis of calm away from the festive frenzy’

We’re already feeling in festive mood on the approach to Raby Castle which impresses on first sight.

Set in acres of deer park, the medieval castle at Staindrop in Darlington is somewhere I haven’t been since I was a child despite its being just an hour’s drive from Newcastle. And I know there’s so much that’s new to see, thanks to its development project The Rising which has restored and transformed historic buildings on its estate to create the likes of a café, shop and exhibition space.

We’re actually here for a new Christmas in the Entrance Hall experience, a first, which is also running this week. Seasonal music is already playing as we park, near to The Plotters’ Forest children’s adventure playground which is also part of the project and which is currently running a Christmas trail.

Soon we pass through the walled garden – which we return to later – on our walk to the castle entrance, where little Christmas trees line the path. Within a courtyard area, where the likes of 1998 Cate Blanchett film Elizabeth and, more recently, TV’s Victoria, have filmed scenes, we are welcomed through solid wooden doors adorned with a giant garland of greenery.

Inside lies the Christmas in the Entrance Hall experience which is exactly what it says. It does not extend beyond the entrance hall – the rest of the castle being closed for the winter season – but it is beautiful and definitely left me keen to return to see more in the new visitor season.

This space, cosily warm thanks to a roaring fire, is dominated by six Christmas trees – from the Raby estate – which are decorated with masses of baubles and fairy lights. They are spaced out around pillars and on both sides of a huge stone and wood-surround fireplace, with a big red armchair nearby for Santa who has been hosting story-time sessions.

There are little chairs laid out for children in readiness but Santa was not there when we visited – it was a Monday morning after all and he no doubt had just had a busy weekend.

Carriages would once drive straight through this entrance space and there are two carriages on view here, one of which apparently was used by the Vane family – the castle owners – in London when they attended the 1902 coronation of King Edward VII.

On the walls are displays of historic weaponry and stuffed animal heads while candles, piles of wrapped presents, garlands, greenery and red berries add to the festive fee. Beyond the roped-off area I spot that even an Atlas-like figure has been given a giant bauble to carry on his back.

There are plenty of photo opportunities to be had and, when we emerge out into the cold, we find plenty more during our wander in the grounds, passing the lake, huge trees which must be hundreds of years old and herds of deer grazing nearby.

In the hectic festive period, we found this such a peaceful location and the spot I thought particularly soothing is the walled garden area where we returned to explore. Tiny birds flitted around as we listened to the sound of the fountain, which is surrounded by great hedges shaped into bold and bulbous designs, and the musical trickling of water flowing past us.

I liked the wintery look of the garden which must take on such a different – and no doubt just as lovely – atmosphere with each season. We had time for a quick browse of the beautifully-scented gift shop, while outside people were turning up to buy Christmas trees, and its exhibition area, also within a converted 18th century stable block – its history brought to life by sounds and projections of horses’ hooves – and coach house, with striking green tiles and its remarkable central table, by local artist Anthony Nixon, which I’d read about but never seen.

This is a fabulous piece of art and a great hunk of wood, made from fallen trees from the estate and carved out with the features of the local landscape. A light show from above lights up its contours and meandering river in waves of sweeping colours.

The projections, from what look like northern lights to scenes of fluttering snow and the sight – and sound – of birds flying overhead, constantly change its story and its look as it moves through the seasons. It’s mesmerising.

I wish I’d had longer to view it but we had a booking in The Vinery cafe for a festive afternoon tea and here, in the spacious glasshouse with views overlooking the 12th century castle and the areas we’d just walked, we rounded off our Christmas experience. Seated amongst decorated trees and fairy lights, we were served sandwiches – including an imaginative truffled egg mayonnaise and juniper-cured Scottish smoked salmon with lemon mayonnaise alongside turkey and cucumber – plus cranberry scones with jam and cream and delicate cakes shaped like mini Christmas trees and little puddings.

Other special festive events currently on offer at Raby include a Castle Terrace by Torchlight experience on December 14 and 21 and other late openings on select dates so that people can buy Christmas trees and gifts. Christmas in the Entrance Hall is available to book on December 11 and December 16-17 – see here – and for festive afternoon tea, which has slots at 2pm or 3pm, see here.

The Plotters’ Forest Enchanted Christmas Trail is running until New Year’s Eve. Find full information here about what’s on offer.

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